Designing the fancy Game Room

If you have an extra room in your home, make the most of it by creating a fancy game room that will wow your guests and add a spark of fun to your life! Having your own hidden recreation room is a astounding way to entertain guests or naturally have a space where you can unwind after a long day at work. Construction your game room does not have to cost a fortune either and can be done even on a shoestring budget.

So, let's get to work Construction so that the games can begin!

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Create a Theme - Before you even break a sweat Construction the ultimate game room, you need to fabricate an astounding theme that will run through the whole project. If you are loyal to a exact sports team you might pick the team colors and logo for your game room. Or if you have a popular hobby then you might build your game room colse to that theme. For example, a fisherman might originate a maritime type game room whereas a toy collector may pick a toy train theme. You could even fabricate your game room theme colse to your popular celebrity to literally make it true to your own sense of entertainment.

The theme is integral in production your game room an astounding feat of fantasy and functionality. literally sit at the 'drawing board' until you come up with a theme that will knock any gamer's socks off. Show your theme to friends and family members to get their input and advice before you set to creating your game room. Don't be afraid to get critiques, which will save you time in the long run, especially if you overlooked something that someone else notices and points out.

A Splash of Paint - Don't waste your cash hiring a professional painter. Save your money for more leading components of your game room. Instead paint the room yourself or enlist a join of buddies to help you. Do it as expertly as potential by lining door and window frames with masking tape first and painting consistently in the same direction. Ideally, the walls should be the same color while the doors and frames are a different, yet complimentary, color.

On to the Art - The focal point of your game room should be an astounding piece of artwork that immediately commands the concentration of anything who enters the room. A unique piece of art will serve as an instant source of conversation for awkward silent moments and literally set the tone for a sensational gaming experience. The newest sensation in the art world are mosaic prints made up of tiny images that can be viewed close-up but fade away into a larger image as you step back away from it. The mosaics can feature anything from notable celebrities like Marilyn Monroe to the team logo for the Boston Bruins. Just make sure you make your mind up a piece of art that will not only match but also compliment your theme.

Finally Furniture - The last thing you want to do is clutter your game room up with boxy pieces of furniture. Keep the furniture to a bare minimum, possibly a small sofa and a join of overstuffed chairs. A game room needs fluidity of movement and the last thing you want is to be tripping over furniture! Plop down a join of beanbag chairs here and there to add even more seating options if necessary.

The Final Touch - Any game room is only as good as its' games. pick wisely as your space is limited. A dartboard is a given. Other games might include a pool or air hockey table. If you can afford it a big screen Tv with the newest video game console will literally make a huge statement in your space. Line one side of your wall with a custom-built display rack to show off your coolest video game Cd's. Make your game room even more extra by including a bit of extravagance that will make your game room the talk of the town! originate a self-service bar faultless with ice machine, install a mini fridge that is full of chilled snacks or invest in a popcorn cart that will pop buttery popcorn to feed your game weary guests.

Designing the fancy Game Room

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Door Hinges - How To enounce Them

Door hinges have a thankless job. For most of their mundane lives, they plainly swing back and forth, retention the door securely in its frame. Occasionally, they strain as children swing back and forth on the door handles. Other times, they shudder to a sudden stop as a door is thoughtlessly slammed.

But when door hinges become a bit unhinged from years of use, they can not only cause doors to squeak, stick or rub, but allow heat to escape and cold to enter. Maintaining your door hinges is a easy process, something you can do once or twice a year. And it will keep your hinges working properly for years to come.

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Unlike the old days when door hinges were made of iron, brass or steel, today's hinges come in an array of materials and finishes. Thanks to contemporary manufacturing techniques, most of these finishes are maintenance free. Left alone, they won't tarnish, rust or fail over time.

What do begin to fail are the screws that hold the door hinges on the door and the frame. The stresses and strains of everyday openings begin to loosen the screws. This is particularly true on heavier doors that are either left open a lot or bear lots of traffic.

At least twice a year, you want to go through your entire home, considering all the door hinges. If you find an loose screws, plainly tighten them with a screwdriver.

If the screws in the door hinges spin in their place and won't tighten into the wood, it means the holes are stripped. When this happens, do the following:

1) Remove the screws on that single hinge. If you have a three hinge door, you can unquestionably undo a single hinge plate at a time. If you have doors with just two hinges, you'll need to place a wedge under the door to take the weight off the hinge before you loosen it.

2) Once the plate is removed, dip a concentrate cardboard matches into wood or white glue and put them into the hole. Then tighten the hinge screws and they should hold.

3) If the thought of shoving matches into the holes doesn't work for you, use a golf tee or a sliver of wood instead. Cover these with glue and reinstall the hinge. Don't put the screw in the repaired hole yet. Allow the glue to dry, then cut off any excess wood, and then drill a pilot hole into it. This will keep the wood from cracking, ensuring that the screw won't strip it again.

Squeaks and creaks don't influence the doing of your door hinges but they can get pretty annoying after awhile. The good thing is that the door hinges are plainly reminding you that it's time for a concentrate of squirts of Wd-40. Spray it at each joint along the pin so it soaks into the center. This is the source of creaks in your door hinges. If you don't have any Wd-40 handy, you can use cooking oil in a pinch, but it won't keep the squeaks away for long.

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True black glass swing door floral case refrigerator, 61 cubic ft true is the world's #1 manufacturer of glass door merchandiser refrigerators. the refrigeration system is designed to hold a wide variety of floral temperature settings. this floral case offers interior agro lighting and a baffled airflow to prolong flower life. the door is "low-e" double pane thermal glass that helps retain the cold and reduce energy costs. the exterior is non-peel, non-chip black laminate. the "no-stoop" lower shelf maximizes your floral display. width: 70-1/8" depth: 29-5/8" height: 78-5/8" weight: 590 lbs capacity: 61 cubic foot 1/2 hp 11.3 amps nema config: 5-15p 300 series stainless steel nsf-7 compliant ecomate insulation zero ozone depletion (odp), zero global warming potential (gwp) cfc free 134a refrigerant argo lightening 4 pvc coated shelves 2 glass doors 5 year condenser warranty unit is pre-wired for 115/60/1 phase 15 amp outlet made in the usa model #: gdm-61fc 472916

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gorgeous Ceramic Tile Work is potential For the Beginner

Anyone with a dinky care and patience can install gorgeous ceramic or glass tile work. You will find that with a dinky care in layout of the tile, selecting the right color combinations and sizes of your tile and then thought about installing the tile can ensue in work that you will be proud to show off to your friends and you can save large sums of cash as an extra bonus.

Tools And Materials Required - Paper pad, pencil, measuring tape, 2" level, chalk line, tile cutter (you may rent one by the day at most rental market or buy an uncostly one for less than ), sponges, pail for clean water, pail for mixing grout, grout, pre-mix tile adhesive, latex (rubber) gloves and a toady float or two and a water bucket.

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Layout - Start with a small project. Possibly a countertop or backsplash in the kitchen or Possibly a sink backsplash in the bathroom. Using a pad and pencil sketch the face you are going to apply tile to and measuring each dimension of the work. A typical area sketch will show all dimensions from wall to wall, floor to ceiling for anyone face where you are going to install tile. Keep your measurements accurate. Tile is expensive so limit your waste.

Countertop - The countertop must be very garage and solid. A duplicate layer of ¾ plywood or ceramic tile cement backer board and a layer of ¾" plywood is a minimum. Cement backer board is available under separate trade names but is especially made for ceramic tile. Make sure it is secured properly. Cutting can be done with a power saw and carbide blade but causes a great deal of dust so cut it face and use protection glasses and a dust mask. Backer board in sink areas is recommended.

For this example, we are going to install tile on a kitchen countertop. When we portion the countertop area, we find it is 2'-0" (24") deep or wide and 10'-0" (120") long. A dinky math tells us we have 20 quadrate feet (Sf) of face to work with. (2'x10'=20'). Now we pick out our tile. The most base kitchen countertop ceramic tile size is 4 1/4" x 4 ¼" but you may use any size tile you would like. Tile comes in 12" x 12", 1" x1" (mosaic), 6" x 6", 8" x8" and even larger tiles are available. Some countertops are done in broken tile pieces to originate a certainly separate compose of your own. Off to the store we go. You will find dozens of sizes and colors to pick from at most tile stores, and large retail home stores. Manufacture this choice can sometimes be the hardest part of this job. Buy the tile you like and get 20Sf plus 2Sf extra for extra cuts. If you have chosen a stock tile, you can all the time go back and get a few more pieces to finish. If you have chosen a close-out or extra sale tile, get plentifulness (perhaps 30Sf) as there may not be any left when you go back. Buy all the other supplies at this time. The salesperson can help you shape out the number of adhesive and grout you need but all packages have approximate quadrate footage of coverage on them.

Installation - Start by dry laying the tile on the countertop. Place full pieces at the front edge and working to the back of the counter. If you find you have a very small piece at the back, say ½" wide, try spreading out the tile a dinky to increase the grout joint width to take up this space. You do not want to try and install these tiny pieces of tile. Do the same for the distance of the top. If you find you have roughly a ½ tile or more at the back of the top that's great. It is the least seen part of the countertop. Once you set your toaster, blender, bread box and can opener on the counter, the back edge roughly disappears. Using your 2' level as a straightedge, make a pencil line from front to back and quadrate to the front edge of the counter. If you have a 2' framing quadrate this is the time to use it. Just place one leg against the front of the counter and the other leg will be square. Make sure the trim along the front edge of the counter is nailed tightly and is level with the top of the tile. Front trims are regularly wood but counter edge tiles are available if you like that look. Buy adequate lineal footage of edge tile to go end to end of the counter top. If you are using edge tile, these will be the first pieces installed. Edge pieces come in 6", 8" and custom lengths but is not recommended to try and line them up with the countertop tiles. Starting with a ½ tile, install the edge tiles from one end to the other. A hold ledger should be installed under the bottom leg of the tile as a temporary hold until the adhesive dries. Spread some adhesive along side the pencil mark you made for the quadrate line. Spread only a dinky at first until you get used to the time it takes to install the tile and the setting time for the adhesive. You don't want to try and remove dried adhesive. As you place the tile, twist the tile slightly to assure you have full touch with the adhesive below.

Ok, you settled the first 6 tiles. Are the lines straight? Are the tops of the tiles level and even? Are the spaces between the tiles all the same? Plastic spacers are available for various widths of grout spaces and are a good idea for your first project but your eye is regularly the best way to judge this. For a short time, you can move the tile colse to to get the best spacing. Now go ahead with the rest pf the tile Manufacture sure you do not place adhesive where the cut tile will go. A small spackle knife can certainly remove any adhesive accidentally spread into those areas. Return the adhesive to the pail Only If It'S clean! You don't want dirt or other debris in your adhesive as it will make a bump under your other tile. You will find it gets easier and easier. install all your full tile first. Take other good look at your work. Are the tile joints level from end of end of the counter? Adjust them now. Tile cutting is certainly easy but try a piece as a sample. portion the space you have for the cut tile and deduct the width of your grout joints. thought about mark the tile and place it in the cutter. ensue the cutter instructions. You will find it does not take a great deal of pressure on the deal with to score the tile. Press on the deal with and it will snap the tile on your score mark. custom a little. (remember the extra tile you bought?) Don't get upset if you crack a few or the tile does not snap on your mark. They are cast ceramic and include air bubbles and other imperfections that sometimes causes them to crack unevenly. install the cut pieces but hand "buttering" (placing the adhesive on the backs of the tile) and placing them one by one until you have them all installed. Clean all you tools carefully. It is roughly impossible to remove dried adhesive. Check over your work and make sure you did not leave adhesive sticking up out of any joint or on the face of the tiles. Using a damp toady and your spackle knife, thought about remove any excess adhesive. Let the tile dry 24 hours.

Grouting - Grout comes in both sanded and non-sanded types. Sanded types are intended for use where you have larger grout joints such as floors. Non-sanded is ordinarily for walls and countertops. Mix your grout in a small, paper pail available at paint or hardware stores. You will most likely want to throw it away when you are done. Grout also comes in many colors with color being the choice of the buyer. You should not however use a white grout in kitchen counters as food stuffs, oils and other kitchen items can fast stain it. Try to stay to a darker color. Leave white for the bathroom. There are grays, pewter, off-whites and other colors than will compliment your tile color. You may want to wear gloves for this part as grout can stain your skin. Some habitancy are allergic to latex so rubber gloves are also fine. Place a small number of the mixed gout on the tile. Yes, right on top of the tile. Using your toady float, push the grout down into the joints working at a 45 degree angle to the joints as much as possible. You will find you will have to push and prod the grout into corners and edges but it's all technique. You will fast compose one of your own. Scrape the excess grout off the tile with the edge of the toady float. Make sure the joints are all filled and are slightly below the top of the tile just a dinky bit. Never leave it above the top of the tile. Work a small area at a time. As you work, keep an eye on the completed areas. They will fast compose a haze over the tile from the drying grout. Do not leave this haze on tile. It will be highly hard to remove later if inherent at all. Using your pail of clean water and other clean toady (6"-8" long is best) slowly wipe the excess grout that has dried on the tile being rigorous not to wipe the grout out of the joints again at a 45 degree angle to the joints when possible. You will have to repeat this cleaning 2-3 times to get it all off the tile but at last the haze will stop appearing. Remember, do not wipe the grout out of the joints. You can use your toady to reshape damaged joints or place a dinky grout somewhere you missed but timing is everything. If done while the grout is still wet, you will never see this touchup work. Once all the grout is installed and wiped clean, you are done. Let the grout dry for at least 24 hours before cleaning the countertop or placing items upon it.

Wall Tile- Wall tile installation is basically the same as a countertop with a few exceptions. Ceramic tile on walls must be installed on either water defiant drywall (green board) but cement backer board is amuch best job. Tile ordinarily is field to high water use colse to sinks and toilets for example, so a water defiant backer is important. Shower areas Must have cement backer board for long life of your wall. We mentioned the use of tile spacers and this is a good place for them. They will help keep the tile from sliding down, conclusion the grout joint while the adhesive is still wet. Joint spacers come loose in a container or sometimes on a card linked with those dinky plastic ends like model airplane parts. Just snap them off as you use them placing one or two in each joint. Once the adhesive dries, you can pull them out and use them again and again. Layout remains the same as before. In this case you want your cut pieces to be at the floor on top of the baseboard. This is least viewable area. If you are using ceramic tile baseboard, install these pieces first Manufacture sure they are level across the whole wall. Make your plumb Starting line as before and start your tile along this line to assure level vertical lines. Step back often and admire your work. Make sure the grout line spaces are straight!

Cutting-Cutting small pieces of tile is the same as a countertop. Use your tile cutter. Once you encounter an outlet box however, these need a dinky extra work. If you are very lucky the outlet box is between two tile or at the edge of one tile. You can cut the sides of the box using a carbide blade and abrasive or a portable ceramic tile saw. (These are also available at your rental store by the day). Cut the sides first and the score the top of the box mark. Using a pair of quadrate jawed pliers, grip the tile firmly and snap out the piece. Wear Your Gloves And Saftey Glasses! Small chips and milling dust can certainly cause an eye injury. Ok, you broke the tile. Try again. When you get one done the rest will be easy. The cover plate will cover any space colse to the outlet as long as you keep the cut fairly close. Test fit the tile dry. If it fits and the cover will cover the gaps, go ahead and install it. Circles are a dinky harder. These can be made with a abrasive if they are large adequate circles but for small circles a Dremel tool or drill with a carbide drill bit works best. You can drill a series of holes along the line as close together as inherent and then snap out the remaining piece. Using the abrasive or Dremel, grind away any parts that need to be removed to get the concluded opening. Test fit it dry first. These are the basic items you will encounter in a wall project. Grouting is the same as a countertop. Work small areas, be rigorous to remove the haze as you hike and do not wipe out the grout joints. Tiles can also be installed at a diagonal to the walls to make the room appear larger or originate optic interest.

Floors-Floor tiles are ordinarily 12' x12" but come in other sizes as well. extra made pieces such as emblems, attractive plaques and borders are all available to be included in your floor layout. Layout is a dinky separate for a floor than a wall or countertop. You want to hide the cuts if at all inherent under the toe kicks of the base counters. At the same time you want the tile to appear evenly spaced within the room. Starting at the entry doorway, mark the centerline of the door opportunity and chalk a line across the whole room quadrate to the doorway. Now portion from the layout line to each side wall. Does the tile work out to even tile? Does it work out to equally sized cut pieces? That would be ideal. A persons eye tricks them into reasoning that if the tile line in the middle of the door they entered is centered and straight, the whole floor is centered and straight. There is nothing wrong if you have separate sized pieces on each side. With cabinets the fridge and other appliances, the edges are barely illustrated but the town of the floor is all the time visible. Once again, dry lay some tile from your layout line at the doorway centerline to the walls. Take a good look. Is this what you want to see when it is finished? If it is, go ahead and start the installation following all the guidelines for walls and counters as to how to proceed. Tile joints in floors are all the time wider than walls or countertops. 3/8" joints are base but I have seen ½" joints that look great. It is your decision as to what you want to see. You are also going to use sanded grout for your floors. It is stronger than un-sanded grout and the sand adds extra force to the grout for the larger joints. You will use Lots of grout for a floor compared to a countertop. The use of ¾' power drill and grout mixer paddle is recommended but you can hand mix it. It is a lot of hard work. Placement of the grout is the same, work small areas, cleaning the tile as you go and so on. Keep off the concluded tile for at least 24 hours. It may look dry but it is not. Walking on un-dried adhesive can twist a tile out of line and look terrible forever. Chiseling out a hardened tile and resetting it is no fun at all.

Cracked Tile-I will touch on these for a occasion as these styles are advent into use more and more each day. Cracked tile tops are made with bits and pieces of many separate tiles that you have gathered or purchased at your local tile store. If your are finding for a mixed color top of red and green, get some red and green tiles that are the colors you like and we will break them. You can mix lots of colors for a true random colored mosaic finding piece. Place the tiles in a good paper sack and place it on the floor (preferably not ceramic). Use your sidewalk. Wearing your protection glasses and gloves charge the tile with a hammer breaking them into small pieces. Keep checking the bag. Pieces ½" to 1" are great but the smaller the pieces are, the more pieces you have to install. Smaller pieces will give a more mosaic like look and can be well worth the effort. With your prices ready, draw the pattern or rough picture you are trying to create. If you are trying totally random, just make sure the colors are well mixed. If you are creating a picture or obvious pattern, apply your tile adhesive directly onto the piece of tile and then place it. This will keep your layout lines illustrated and allow you stop work whenever you tire. The rest of the installation is the same as other tile work. Work clean and keep your tools clean. Let your work dry well before applying grout.

Mosaic Tile- Mosaic tile comes from the installation glued to an often sized 12" x 18" plastic grid sheet as a base to hold dozens of tile at once. When installing mosaic tile on a floor or wall, this saves hours of labor in that you can set 12" x 18" of tile at once and not have to apply each 1 x1" tile by itself. When doing custom work, you want to install each tile one at a time. The tile will simply snap off the sheet or you may use a razor knife to slice off sections to infill your pattern Possibly 2,10 or 20 pieces at a time. Mosaic tile is used by artists and craftsmen worldwide to originate gorgeous pieces of work from earthenware to wall and floor designs or a picture to hand on the wall for decoration. The designs are limitless and are dinky only by your imagination. Mosaic tiles are very, very hard but can still cut with great care. When working with small pieces be rigorous when using power tools to cut the pieces and keep your fingers away from the blade. Always, all the time use your protection glasses and gloves. Cut tile can leave very sharp edges to cut you. A gentle rubbing of the tile edge on sandpaper will help remove this sharp edge. Hint-Watch in your local tile store or home town for busted boxes or odd sheets of tile habitancy have returned. You maybe able to get a great price on these far less than retail and the market clean up the mess. It can supply you with a far greater choice of colors to work with without having to stock whole sheets of odd colors. originate away!

A few extra hints. There are various products on the market for waterproofing your tile grout joints. Most are silicone based products that are applied with a brush or self-contained roller applicator. These do work but need upkeep by the reapplication of the silicone to assert the seal. Oft times, the silicone discolors from cleaning agents or sunlight and does come to be unattractive. It is difficult to remove in these cases so caution should be used in using them. Retention the joints clean and the occasional touchup of the grout should be all that is needed for long life.

With custom you can originate some rather excellent ceramic tile work. There is no limit what you can do with designs, colors, or even pictures within your tile work. Try it!

We have covered the basics of ceramic tile setting along with helpful hints on protection and buying. Keep you protection glasses and gloves handy and use them! Eyes cannot be replaced! Good luck with your projects.

Pete Your friendly construction Inspector

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Back in the mid-80s (yikes, was it of course 20 years ago?), I was a young educator working in New Orleans. To earn extra money, I worked part time over the street from my Magazine street apartment, at Pj's Coffee and Tea. Having grown up on instant Maxwell House, I was not the most coffee-savvy drinker in the world.

In the days before Starbucks, before coffee houses became trendy and common, I learned the basics about roasting coffee beans and serving coffee from experts. I learned about coffee's origins, roasting methods, and how to get ready the greatest cup. In my opinion, the best cup of coffee can only be made with a French press, a glass carafe in which you mix ground coffee, boiling water, and use a simple plunger-press device to push the grounds to the bottom when you want to serve the coffee. This is the best way to make coffee because you don't "cook" the coffee as you would in a drip machine. Cooking coffee releases its acidity and makes it bitter. I was so in love with my French press, I used to bring it on camping trips. There's nothing quite like rolling out of your tent in the woods at dawn, wrapping your cold hands colse to a warm cup (not a paper cup, perish the thought!) and sipping moderately as you tend the fire for your morning breakfast.

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I might also argue that the cold drip formula is up there with the French press. This formula produces a coffee join that you can keep in your fridge, but it's slow and I believe best noteworthy for iced coffee, which is how I learned it at Pjs.

Don't get me wrong. I'm not anti-drip or anti-percolator. Heavens, no! For large scale convenience, there's nothing like machinery. I own a drip coffee maker and a Krups cappucino/espresso maker and use them frequently. When I'm bolting out the door in the morning, I fill my metal thermal mug (never plastic, ick!) with a dark, rich French roast. If it's a particularly good roast, I drink it black so as not to sully the flavor. If it's mediocre or I'm just in the mood for light coffee, I use Half-and-Half. No sugar in my coffee, thank you. My husband uses skim milk which upsets me to no end because it produces a grayish colored murky coffee I find unappealling. But hey, he likes it and as long as he knows never to use skim milk in My coffee, we're cool.

Now about those flavored coffees...I often take flack for this, but let me say I am vehemently opposed to flavored coffee. Coffee Is a flavor, so adding additional flavor to it is like adding ice cubes and club soda to a pricey bottle of merlot. How would you perhaps appreciate the personality of a bottle of wine if you added extra stuff to it? You'd change the entire personality of something elegant and simple and make it complex and confusing. With coffee, as with many foods and drinks, simplicity is elegant.

Back in my coffee house days, we did not serve flavored coffees. We offered a dark roast, a medium roast, and a water-processed decaf to our customers along with an assortment of fresh baked goods, made from scratch by local bakers. We believed flavored coffees were just wrong because they covered up the true essence and attractiveness of the bean. Plus they weren't favorite then. I know they are favorite now. The rows of syrupy flavors in bottles lined up in some coffee bars are testimony to the popularity of flavored coffee. I'll pass, thank you.

To eat or not to eat with coffee? Again, keep it simple. Toast or an English muffin and a steaming cup of java contain the greatest breakfast. A medium roast in the afternoon with fresh biscotti is heaven. A demi-tasse of dark espresso with the tiniest slice of lemon rubbed colse to the edge of the cup allows me to linger and enjoy the afterglow of a excellent meal.

Ahhh, did I mention shortbread and coffee? all the time appreciated, all the time appropriate, a wedge of Vermont Shortbread with your coffee is the greatest in luxury and pampering. It's probably not something you'd eat every day, but for those times when you want to practice extra self-care, why not enjoy your coffee with the most elegant and simple of all cookies, shortbread?

When food and drink are pure, simple, and flavorful without being contrived, you will want to savor them moderately and purposefully. You will want to sit quietly with your steaming cup and your snack with your eyes moderately complete and allow flavors, aroma, and warmth to dance their slow, sensual dance of relieve and nurturing. And guess what? The world feels a whole lot friendlier when you take the time to enjoy the simple attractiveness in your bean...or in anyone you're eating and drinking.

beauty and the Bean

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• UL and NSF Listed

True - 2-Section Glass Door Access Roll-Thru Refrigerator - Four (4) Doors - Stainless / Aluminum Exterior - Aluminum Interior - Accepts Roll-In Racks up to 27"W x 29"D x 66" Tall - 115 Volts - 75 Cu. Ft. - 68" Wide - TG2RRT-2G-2S Overview By Customers .....

True - 2-Section Glass Door Access Roll-Thru Refrigerator - Four (4) Doors - Stainless / Aluminum Exterior - Aluminum Interior - Accepts Roll-In Racks up to 27"W x 29"D x 66" Tall - 115 Volts - 75 Cu. Ft. - 68" Wide - TG2RRT-2G-2S• Oversized, factory balanced refrigeration system holds 33°F to 38°F (.5°C to 3.3°C) for the best in food preparation • Exterior - 300 series stainless steel doors and rainshield. Anodized aluminum exterior sides, back and bottom. • Interior - NSF approved white aluminum side walls and back liner. 300 series stainless steel floor with coved corners. • "Low-E", double pane thermal insulated glass inserts in stainless steel door frames. • Three (3) lifetime guaranteed, cam-lift hinges per door. Full 180° open capability with a stay open feature at 120°. • Lifetime guaranteed recessed door handles. • Accepts roll-in racks with a maximum dimension of 27"W x 29"D x 66" Tall • One (1) heavy gauge stainless steel ramp per door. • Entire cabinet structure and solid portion of doors are foamed-in-place using high-density, CFC-free, polyurethane insulation. Dimensions: 68"W x 37-1/8"D x 83-3/4" Tall, 781 Lbs. Electrical: 115V / 60Hz / 1-PH / 9.5 Amps / NEMA 5-15P / 1/2 HP Warranty: One Year on Parts and Labor with 5 Years on the Compressor

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